plated dessert – lemon, mascarpone, pomegranate

I started to put this post together with the intention to talk about lemon pound cake as a breakfast pastry/bread. The whole “pound cake” genre has a lot of crossover between breakfast and dessert, not always in a way that makes sense. For instance, straight up pound cake is pretty universally considered a dessert, whereas coffee cake – basically pound cake with more sugar and a little cinnamon added to it – is solidly in the breakfast bread category (damn I love coffee cake – recipe coming soon to DFK). Lemon pound cake falls somewhere in between. Luckily a little inspiration came to me while thinking about lemon pound cake in general so today I’m going to give you pound cake as dessert. Not just a dessert, actually, a plated dessert. The plot thickens…

This is a very simple plated dessert, more of an introduction to the process and something that would work well for a dinner party at home. I’ll introduce more complex arrangements in the near future. Since this is the first time I’ve shared a true plated dessert with all of you lovely pastry fiends, I thought I might talk about them for a minute and give you some insight to how I think of them, but what started as a quick chat on the subject turned into its own full-blown post. For that, check out my post on plated desserts.

recipe notes

When making a reduction, it’s important to remember that unless you intend to serve the reduction warm, the properties of it will change pretty dramatically when it cools. If you reduce a liquid to the thickness you want to serve it cold, once it actually does cool it will be much thicker. Sweetness is also enhanced when product is warm, so I like to let my reduction cool completely before I add any finishing flavor or acid, salt, etc.

For this plated dessert, we’re going to make a quenelle (say “kwuh-nell”). A quenelle is an absolute must skill for any self respecting pastry-er. There are three keys to a good quenelle (other than technique). The first key is your spoon, and there are as many claims as to what the best spoon shape and size is as there are pastry chefs. The best thing to do is try out some spoons and find one you like. Whatever that spoon may be, it should have a deep curve in its bowl, which will always help form the quenelle. The second key is making sure that spoon is nice and hot before you start, so whatever product you’re quenelling will release from the spoon cleanly. I like to use hot water just barely at a simmer. The third key is the right texture of whatever it is you’re quenelling. The product needs to be soft enough to easily take a form, but firm enough to hold its shape. That’s about as defined as I can get at this point, you’ll just have to see what I mean when you start to make them.

lemon pound cake, herbed mascarpone, pomegranate

lemon pound cake

226g butter unsalted
630g sugar
340g whole eggs
100g lemon juice
4g vanilla extract
5g salt
3g baking powder
2g baking soda
450g all purpose flour
245g sour cream
10g lemon zest approx. 2 lemons

To prepare your baking mold you can simply butter and flour the pan like I do in my brownie recipe, or line it with parchment. I like to line the mold for this recipe because it does a nice job of keeping the crust intact when you remove the cake.

Butter the mold as you normally would.

Cut a piece of parchment paper as wide as the inside of the mold. The length needs to be at least able to cover the bottom and sides of the inside of the mold and can always be trimmed if too long.

Press the parchment paper into the mold, allowing the butter to hold it in place. I don’t worry about the ends of the mold as we will be cutting those off once the cake is baked anyway.

Bring the butter, whole eggs and sour cream to room temp. before getting started.

Combine and sift the all purpose flour, baking powder and baking soda.

Combine the butter, sugar, salt, vanilla extract and lemon zest and mix in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment until well combined. To get the most out of the lemon zest, zest directly into the mixing bowl onto the other ingredients.

Add the whole eggs and mix until emulsified.

Add the sifted dry ingredients to the butter mixture and mix until combined.

Add the sour cream and lemon juice and mix until emulsified.

Cast the batter into your baking mold, about ¾ full. For this particular mold that was about 35oz/2.2lb/1k of batter. A helpful note to have in all of your cake recipes is how much batter is needed to fill a baking mold. I just place my baking pan or mold on a scale and fill it to get the measurement. I generally don’t include yields for you in my recipes because there are many variables you’re in control of, so this is an easy way to get a recipe yield for your own unique equipment.

Let the batter rest in the cooler for a minimum of 1hr up to overnight.

Clarify a little butter by first warming the butter in a small saucepot (or in a microwave) until it is melted. Skim the foam from the top of the melted butter and discard.

Pour the clear butter into a storage container without adding the solids that sank to the bottom of your saucepot or container.

Leave this stuff (milk solids) behind.

Before placing the pound cake in the oven, create an indented line down the center of the batter, almost like a trough.

Use the clarified butter to fill the indentation you created in the top of the pound cake batter. This will allow the cake to expand down the center of the cake as it bakes, giving you a more uniform crust.

Bake at 350F/176C for 20min. and cover the pound cake with tin foil. Continue to bake for another 20-30min. or until a knife comes out of the center of the cake almost clean (but has no raw batter on it).

candied lemon peel

500g water (A)
10g salt
500g water (B)
500g sugar
4g rosemary approx. 1/2 stalk, optional
6g lemongrass approx. 1 small stalk, optional

Prepare the lemon peel by cutting the top and bottom from the lemon(s).

Cut the peel and pith from the fruit, angling your knife blade around the fruit as you cut to keep as much lemon fruit intact to the core and as little as possible on the peel.

Filet any lemon fruit or excess pith from the slices of peel. danger, will robinson! You will be cutting towards your fingers so be careful and use a knife that is sharp so you don’t have to force the blade! Dull knives cut hands.

For this candied peel, we will leave some of the pith intact on the peel, but only a thin layer, about 1-2mm.

Place the peels in a saucepot and add the water (A) and salt. Lightly simmer the peels in the salt water for 5min.

Drain the peels and rinse them clean. Return them to the saucepot and replace with fresh water, just enough to cover the peels. No need to measure this amount.

Simmer the peels in the fresh water for 5min.

Drain and rinse the peels two more times, and simmer – again with fresh water – for 5min. In total:

1 x 5min. simmer in salt water (A)

3 x 5min. simmer in fresh water

It’s important not to cut corners on this first boiling process. It will help to clean wax or dirt from the outer rind, soften the peel to allow candying and reduce the bitterness of the pith.

Return the peels to a saucepot and add the water (B) with the sprig of rosemary and the split lemongrass.

Add the sugar to the water in four additions, gently stirring in the sugar and bringing the liquid up to a simmer with each addition before adding the next addition.

When all of the sugar has been added, lightly simmer the peels until they are fully candied, about 30min.

When the pith of the peel starts to turn translucent, your peel will be candied, or close to it.

Carefully remove a piece of lemon peel from the candying syrup  (it will be hot, duh) and eat a small portion to detect any bitterness. If the peel is still quite bitter, continue to simmer.

Store the candied peel in some of the candying liquid and reserve the remaining liquid with the rosemary and lemongrass.

We’ll be using this delicious syrup shortly…

herbed mascarpone­

200g mascarpone
25g powdered sugar
1g rosemary
2g vanilla extract

Finely mince the rosemary.

Combine all the ingredients and mix until homogenized. You can easily do this by hand but I tend to use a stand mixer with a whip attachment, probably as a habit from making much larger quantities.

pomegranate reduction

250g pomegranate juice approx. 2 pomegranates
50g candying syrup
1g vanilla extract
10g balsamic vinegar
7g lemongrass
50g lemon juice

A lot of people find removing pomegranate seeds a difficult task and there are plenty of tricks and tips on how to do it, with varying rates of success. The structure of a pomegranate isn’t all too different from a citrus fruit. There are wedge-like clusters of seeds separated from one another by thin membrane walls.

To extract the seeds, simply pull apart and isolate a wedge of seeds and strip them from the rind.

Reserve a portion of the brightest, cleanest seeds for plate garnish.

Crush the remaining pomegranate seeds through a fine mesh strainer. I give the seeds a rough chop in a food processor to help remove as much juice as possible.

Combine the juice, lemongrass and balsamic vinegar and bring to a simmer. A foam will develop on the surface of the liquid from the balsamic vinegar. Just skim that off to keep the reduction clear.

Reduce the liquid at a slow simmer by 2/3 (approx. 20min) and let it cool. Once cool add the lemon juice and reserve.

assembly

Start by trimming your pound cake. For a more rustic dessert, you could simply cut a slice of pound cake to then plate. Personally, I like something a little more sophisticated.

Start by trimming the crust from the side of the pound cake.

Cut the cake lengthwise into a 1″ strip.

Trim all four edges of the strip.

Last, cut the strip in half (which may not be necessary if you’re using a smaller baking mold). In the end my piece of pound cake is approx. 2.5″/6.3cm x 3.5″/8.9cm.

Julienne some of the candied peel into thin strips. Cut the candied lemon peel side down.

Gather all of your mise en place: pomegranate reduction, fresh pomegranate seeds, herbed mascarpone, candied lemon peel and your lemon pound cake.

Just before plating, spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on one flat side of the pound cake. We’re going to grill that side, and mayo is by far the greatest fat to use for that. Yup, for real. Think about it, it’s eggs and oil, ’nuff said. Try it next time you make grilled cheese, and send life-changing thank you notes my way.

Lightly grill the pound cake. A nonstick omelette pan is great for this.

Place the pound cake in the center of your plate.

Sauce the plate with the reduction in a loose ring around the cake.

Make a quenelle of herbed mascarpone and place it on one end of the pound cake.

To make a quenelle, start by dragging your spoon down into the mascarpone and toward you, with the “point” of the spoon facing directly opposite you.

As you drag the spoon toward the edge of the bowl begin to turn it, with the point of the spoon rotating 90 degrees.

Bring the spoon up the edge, rotating the curve of the spoon under the formed quenelle. Patience, grasshopper. It takes practice.

Sprinkle some pomegranate seeds around the sauce.

Place pomegranate seeds and candied lemon peel onto the quenelle and pound cake.

Voila! Your plated dessert is complete. The citrus and pomegranate make it a nice dessert for the winter, but this can easily adapt for warmer weather. The pomegranate reduction and seeds can be switched out for another seasonally available fruit, and the herbs incorporated can be changed to match. I would pair this dessert with a lighter meal, something featuring seafood or fish.

Cheers – Chef Scott

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plated dessert - lemon, mascarpone, pomegranate

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plated dessert - lemon, mascarpone, pomegranate Votes: 1 Rating: 5 You: Rate this recipe! Print Recipe

Ingredients

lemon pound cake

• 226 g butter unsalted
• 630 g sugar
• 340 g whole eggs
• 100 g lemon juice
• 4 g vanilla extract
• 5 g salt
• 3 g baking powder
• 2 g baking soda
• 450 g All-purpose flour
• 245 g sour cream
• 10 g lemon zest approx. 2 lemons

candied lemon peel

• 500 g water A
• 10 g salt
• 500 g water B
• 500 g sugar
• 4 g rosemary approx. 1/2 stalk, optional
• 7 g lemongrass approx. 1 stalk, optional

herbed mascarpone

• 200 g mascarpone
• 25 g powdered sugar
• 1 g rosemary
• 2 g vanilla extract

pomegranate reduction

• 250 g pomegranate juice approx. 2 pomegranates
• 50 g candying syrup
• 1 g vanilla extract
• 10 g balsamic vinegar
• 7 g lemongrass approx. 1 stalk
• 50 g lemon juice

Servings:

Units:MetricUS Imperial

Instructions

lemon pound cake

1. Prepare your baking mold by buttering the base and walls. Cut a piece of parchment paper as wide as the inside of the mold. The length needs to be at least able to cover the bottom and long sides of the inside of the mold. Press the parchment paper into the mold, allowing the butter to hold it in place. Trim the parchment if necessary.
2. Bring the butter, whole eggs and sour cream to room temp. before getting started.
3. Combine and sift the all purpose flour, baking powder and baking soda.
4. Combine the butter, sugar, salt, vanilla extract and lemon zest and mix in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment until well combined. Zest directly into the mixing bowl onto the other ingredients to preserve the oil in the zest.
5. Add the whole eggs and mix until emulsified.
6. Add the sifted dry ingredients to the butter mixture and mix until combined.
7. Add the sour cream and lemon juice and mix until emulsified.
8. Cast the batter into your baking mold, approximately ¾ full.
9. Let the batter rest in the cooler for a minimum of 1hr up to overnight.
10. Clarify a little butter by first warming butter in a small saucepot (or in a microwave) until it is melted. Skim the foam from the top of the melted butter and discard. Pour the clear butter into a storage container without adding the solids that sank to the bottom of your saucepot or container.
11. Before placing the pound cake in the oven, create an indented line down the center of the batter.
12. Use the clarified butter to fill the indentation you created in the top of the pound cake batter. This will allow the cake to expand down the center of the cake as it bakes, giving you a more uniform crust.
13. Bake at 350F/176C for 20min. and cover the pound cake with tin foil. Continue to bake for another 20-30min. or until a knife comes out of the center of the cake almost clean (but has no raw batter on it).

candied lemon peel

1. Prepare the lemon peel by cutting the top and bottom from the lemon(s).
2. Cut the peel and pith from the fruit, angling your knife blade around the fruit as you cut to keep as much lemon fruit intact and as little as possible on the peel.
3. With a sharp knife, filet any lemon fruit or excess pith from the slices of peel.
4. For this candied peel, we will leave some of the pith intact on the peel, but only a thin layer, about 1-2mm.
5. Place the peels in a saucepot and add the water and salt. Lightly simmer the peels in the salt water for 5min.
6. Drain the peels and rinse them clean. Return them to the saucepot and replace with fresh water, just enough to cover the peels. No need to measure this amount.
7. Simmer the peels in the fresh water for 5min.
8. Drain and rinse the peels two more times, and simmer - again with fresh water - for 5min. In total: 1 x 5min. simmer in salt water 3 x 5min. simmer in fresh water
9. Return the peels to a saucepot and add the water (B) with the sprig of rosemary and the split lemongrass.
10. Add the sugar to the water in four additions, gently stirring in the sugar and bringing the liquid up to a simmer with each addition before adding the next addition.
11. When all of the sugar has been added, lightly simmer the peels until they are fully candied, about 30min.
12. When the peel and pith begin to turn translucent, it will be close to finished. Carefully remove a piece (it will be hot) from the candying syrup and eat a small portion to detect any bitterness. If the peel is still quite bitter, continue to simmer.
13. Store the candied peel in some of the candying liquid and reserve the remaining liquid with the rosemary and lemongrass.

herbed mascarpone

1. Finely mince the rosemary.
2. Soften the mascarpone and add the powdered sugar, mixing until combined.
3. Add the vanilla extract and rosemary, gently folding in until combined.

pomegranate reduction

1. Extract the pomegranate seeds. To extract the seeds, simply pull apart and isolate a wedge of seeds and strip them from the rind. Reserve a portion of the brightest, cleanest seeds for plate garnish.
2. Crush the remaining pomegranate seeds through a fine mesh strainer.
3. Combine the juice, lemongrass and balsamic vinegar and bring to a simmer. A foam will develop on the surface of the liquid from the balsamic vinegar. Skim the foam off to keep the reduction clear.
4. Reduce the liquid at a slow simmer by 2/3 (approx. 20min) and let cool. Once cool add the lemon juice and reserve.

assembly

1. Start by trimming your pound cake. Trim the crust from the side of the pound cake, then cut the cake lengthwise into a 1" strip.
2. Trim all four edges of the strip.
3. Last, cut the strip in half (which may not be necessary if you're using a smaller baking mold). In the end the piece of pound cake should be approx. 2.5"/6.3cm x 3.5"/8.9cm.
4. Julienne some of the candied peel into thin strips, cutting the candied lemon peel side down.
5. Gather all of your mise en place: pomegranate reduction, fresh pomegranate seeds, herbed mascarpone, candied lemon peel and your lemon pound cake.
6. Just before plating, spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on one flat side of the pound cake.
7. Lightly grill the pound cake on the side with mayonnaise only until light golden brown.
8. Place the pound cake in the center of your plate.
9. Sauce the plate with the reduction in a loose ring around the cake.
10. Make a quenelle of herbed mascarpone and place it on one end of the pound cake.
11. To make a quenelle, start by dragging your spoon down into the mascarpone and toward you, with the "point" of the spoon facing directly opposite you.
12. As you drag the spoon toward the edge of the bowl begin to turn it, with the point of the spoon rotating 90 degrees.
13. Bring the spoon up the edge, rotating the curve of the spoon under the formed quenelle.
14. Sprinkle some pomegranate seeds around the sauce.
15. Place pomegranate seeds and candied lemon peel onto the quenelle and pound cake.

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